This place is the bomb, David Wolman says of Christmas Island, former H-bomb test site turned tourist attraction:
In the intervening decades since the era of nuclear-weapons testing, the natural world has quietly rebounded. Today, Christmas Island, Bikini Atoll and other Cold War proving grounds, like Monte Bello north of Perth, Australia, constitute some of the most ecologically intact corners of the world, emitting not radiation but a peculiar allure; it’s atomic tourism with a naturalist spin.Marine biologists diving at Bikini have returned with glowing reports. Inspecting a mile-wide crater left by a hydrogen bomb that exploded with a force 1,000 times greater than the bomb dropped on Hiroshima, researchers recently found the lagoon to be 80 percent covered by thriving corals, with some species growing into huge, treelike formations.
Karen Koltes, a coral specialist with the U.S. Department of the Interior, says reefs around places like Bikini “are among the few examples left in the world of what an ecosystem looks like absent human presence and exploitation.” (Unintentionally pouring on the irony, scientists will sometimes employ the word “pristine.”) This nature-despite-nukes contrast can be seen at other former test sites, such as the waters surrounding Alaska’s Amchitka Island where, 40 years ago, the U.S. conducted three underground explosions. The same is true of the desolate dunes of a former French test site in Algeria, and even the scrublands inside the fence at the Nevada Test Site.
The same can be said of Chernobyl; it’s teeming with life.