In Sleeping with Cannibals, Paul Raffaele describes his trek into the jungles of Papua New Guinea, to visit the Korowai, a tribe known for killing and eating khakhua, the (male) witches who cause disease:
After we eat a dinner of river fish and rice, Boas joins me in a hut and sits cross-legged on the thatched floor, his dark eyes reflecting the gleam from my flashlight, our only source of light. Using Kembaren as translator, he explains why the Korowai kill and eat their fellow tribesmen. It’s because of the khakhua, which comes disguised as a relative or friend of a person he wants to kill. “The khakhua eats the victim’s insides while he sleeps,” Boas explains, “replacing them with fireplace ash so the victim does not know he’s being eaten. The khakhua finally kills the person by shooting a magical arrow into his heart.” When a clan member dies, his or her male relatives and friends seize and kill the khakhua. “Usually, the [dying] victim whispers to his relatives the name of the man he knows is the khakhua,” Boas says. “He may be from the same or another treehouse.”
I ask Boas whether the Korowai eat people for any other reason or eat the bodies of enemies they’ve killed in battle. “Of course not,” he replies, giving me a funny look. “We don’t eat humans, we only eat khakhua.”
An example:
On our third day of trekking, after hiking from soon after sunrise to dusk, we reach Yafufla, another line of stilt huts set up by Dutch missionaries. That night, Kembaren takes me to an open hut overlooking the river, and we sit by a small campfire. Two men approach through the gloom, one in shorts, the other naked save for a necklace of prized pigs’ teeth and a leaf wrapped about the tip of his penis. “That’s Kilikili,” Kembaren whispers, “the most notorious khakhua killer.” Kilikili carries a bow and barbed arrows. His eyes are empty of expression, his lips are drawn in a grimace and he walks as soundlessly as a shadow.
The other man, who turns out to be Kilikili’s brother Bailom, pulls a human skull from a bag. A jagged hole mars the forehead. “It’s Bunop, the most recent khakhua he killed,” Kembaren says of the skull. “Bailom used a stone ax to split the skull open to get at the brains.” The guide’s eyes dim. “He was one of my best porters, a cheerful young man,” he says.
Bailom passes the skull to me. I don’t want to touch it, but neither do I want to offend him. My blood chills at the feel of naked bone. I have read stories and watched documentaries about the Korowai, but as far as I know none of the reporters and filmmakers had ever gone as far upriver as we’re about to go, and none I know of had ever seen a khakhua’s skull.
The fire’s reflection flickers on the brothers’ faces as Bailom tells me how he killed the khakhua, who lived in Yafufla, two years ago. “Just before my cousin died he told me that Bunop was a khakhua and was eating him from the inside,” he says, with Kembaren translating. “So we caught him, tied him up and took him to a stream, where we shot arrows into him.”
Bailom says that Bunop screamed for mercy all the way, protesting that he was not a khakhua. But Bailom was unswayed. “My cousin was close to death when he told me and would not lie,” Bailom says.
At the stream, Bailom says, he used a stone ax to chop off the khakhua’s head. As he held it in the air and turned it away from the body, the others chanted and dismembered Bunop’s body. Bailom, making chopping movements with his hand, explains: “We cut out his intestines and broke open the rib cage, chopped off the right arm attached to the right rib cage, the left arm and left rib cage, and then both legs.”
The body parts, he says, were individually wrapped in banana leaves and distributed among the clan members. “But I kept the head because it belongs to the family that killed the khakhua,” he says. “We cook the flesh like we cook pig, placing palm leaves over the wrapped meat together with burning hot river rocks to make steam.”
Such noble savages, uncorrupted by civilization…