The City That Raised Itself From the Dead tells of the rise and fall — and literal rise — of Galveston, Texas:
For some reason, the San Francisco earthquake (1906) and the great Johnstown flood (1889) have always captured the public’s attention, but what happened at Galveston in the space of a few hours caused a death toll much higher than these two disasters combined.
Galveston in 1900 was America’s biggest cotton port and the third busiest harbor in the country. It was said to have “more millionaires, street for street” than any other U.S. city. Its famous Strand was known as the “Wall Street of the Southwest” and its harbor was called the “Western Ellis Island” because it was second only to New York as a port of entry for immigrants. It seemed destined to become one of the largest centers of commerce and industry in the western United States.
Poised as it was on the Gulf of Mexico, Galveston was also a part of the vast weather monitoring service of the recently-organized U.S. Weather Bureau. Dr. Isaac Cline was the chief local forecaster for Galveston, part of a network of 158 weather observatories across the country augmented by more than 2500 volunteer observers, and tied in by telegraph to numerous coastal stations, river monitoring stations and weather outposts in the West Indies.
When some of the city fathers had suggested that perhaps a barrier wall should be built along the coastal side of the island as a protection against hurricanes, Dr. Cline opposed the project as a waste of money. He characterized fears that a hurricane could endanger the city as “an absurd delusion.” The idea had been abandoned. Dr. Cline, after all, was a highly trained weather expert.
Then an “x-storm,” an extreme hurricane hit:
Dr. Cline raised the black and red hurricane flag at the Galveston weather station on Friday, September 7, but few people paid attention. Angry winds, precursors of the storm, blew late Friday and early Saturday. Galveston, an island about 30 miles long and two miles wide, was virtually at sea level. Flooding from the Gulf began early. By noon on Saturday southern and eastern parts of the city were under water. When night fell on September 8th winds were blowing at 80 miles per hour, hurling roof shingles and other debris through the streets.
By this time all four bridges leading off the island had been destroyed. The 37,000 residents of Galveston had no choice but to ride out the storm. One of the last communiqu?s from the city, read, “Gulf rising rapidly, half the city now under water?great loss of life must result.”
Sometime before midnight the wind gauge at Dr. Cline’s weather station recorded 100 miles per hour and then was blown away. The barometer dropped to 28.55, the lowest ever recorded at that time.
As the winds howled out of the darkness, the storm surge came. The highest point of ground on Galveston Island was 8.7 feet above sea level. The wall of water that roared out of the Gulf was 16 feet high. People on the roofs of taller buildings could hear the crashing sounds as houses and buildings around them were carried away.
By the early hours of September 9th the storm had passed. More than 2000 people had perished at Johnstown. About 700 would die six years later in San Francisco. The best estimates for Galveston range from a minimum of 6,000 to a maximum of 12,000, counting those lost in areas beyond the city. Among the dead, Dr. Cline’s wife.
More than 3,600 buildings and houses had been destroyed. Damage estimates in today’s dollars would be $700 million. Rotting bodies littered the streets and beaches creating a terrible stench in the summer heat. Attempts to load bodies onto barges, weight them down and bury them at sea went awry. Many of the corpses washed back to shore the following day. Cremation was the only practical solution. Mass funeral pyres glowed amid the devastation for more than a week.
It took some time for news of what had happened in Galveston to get out to the nation. When relief trains attempted to reach the city the engineers found the rails blocked by debris and piles of corpses.
Then Galveston literally rose again:
Three civil engineers, Alfred Noble, Henry M. Robert and H.C. Ripley, supervised the amazing work. Quarter-mile-square sections of the city were enclosed with dikes. All structures within these sections were jacked up. Even the gas, water and sewer lines were raised. Then sand from the Galveston ship channel was pumped into each section through huge pipe lines until it was filled to the new level.
It took 16 million cubic yards of sand (imagine one million dump trucks) to raise 500 city blocks, some just a few inches, others almost a foot, above sea level.